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16 January 2014

Commercial conceptualism

ACNE pre-fall '14

I am not the most daring dresser; I prefer clean cut, sharp and well tailored pieces in neutral colors (aka black, white, navy if I'm feeling brave). And while I don't think this lack of boldness inhibits ones ability to dress well, I do get the odd moment of 'I wish I had the balls to wear that'. On that note, Pre-fall is often labelled as the most commercial (the implication being somewhat un-adventurous) of the seasons; a season for the masses, shall we say. Despite what might seem a hindrance, it's editorial like presentations tell a story beyond the clothes, and that in itself is a movement beyond what you see at first glance.
This year, the usually tame collections have broken out of their sartorial shells and brought us a much more conceptual start to 2014. It started back in September, with even Celine turning away from the inside of Philo's wondrous mind and taking cues from art and geometry to create a collection like none they'd done before. A brilliant mix of ideas and inspiration. This trickled down conceptual approach seems to be planting it's roots for the coming year. I wrote a while ago about the persistence of minimalism within collections, finally it seems that minimalism is starting to shift and change face. Case in point; Acne Studios. Jonny Johansson returns again with a collection that manages to sustain both a definite wearability and blunt indifference to conformity. Taking ideas and creating something physical, whether that be floral print inspired by his son's cut outs or the down to earth mixing of wools and shearling. Johansson shape shifts the expected; hourglass leather jackets, bold lines and an array of fall colors that seem to both clash and compliment. His ability to stretch the imagination by altering the shape of a jacket, over sizing a pair of trousers or simply drawing a line (see those boots, hard to miss) shows that a conceptual approach to fashion needn't be entirely abstract, but merely a distortion of what we already know.
Johansson isn't the only one to jump on the train halfway between commercial fashion and the leanings of modern art, Pre-Fall was rife with blinding patterns, clashing and over sized silhouettes.
A bold attempt to prove that commercial needn't be predictable.

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  1. your articles ♥ greatly written again !

  2. Pre fall is always my favourite. Everything is a bit stripped back and more simple. Loved this Acne collection but still wondering how I feel about leggings worn under full skirts. xx


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